Vẻ quyến rũ của cây Bonsai Dẻ Gai Nhật Bản (Japanese beech, Fagus Crenata) – Bonsai Focus Studio

Vẻ quyến rũ của cây Bonsai Dẻ Gai Nhật Bản (Japanese beech, Fagus Crenata) – Bonsai Focus Studio

Nguồn: Tạp chí Bonsai Focus English Edition T7/T8 2019

Dịch và biên tập: Dũng Cá Xinh (13/08/2021) 


English

The charm of the Japanese beech

  • Text and photography: Bonsai Focus Studio

The Japanese beech is always an exhibition eye catcher. Its smooth grey-white bark and muscled trunk give the tree a most majestic appearance. Easy to work on, as seen in this example. With just a little pruning and wiring you can already improve this little beech

This field grown beech (Fagus crenata) was further prepared for bonsai in a simple bonsai pot. It already has many fine branches. We show you how to give it its final shape by making some corrections to refine the branch setting.

Beech has a natural tendency to be apical dominant, meaning you have to prevent it concentrating all its energy and growth on the outer regions and top. The strong branch on the left side is an example of what happens when allowed to grow free. It now competes with the top, so we need to remove it, or reduce it in length to bring the whole in balance. In this case it would be spoiled if we cut that branch completely, it has too much character. Another branch grows right towards the front. It blocks the space between the trunk and the left side branch, so that will be removed.

Analysing the tree

The beech before any work is done
The beech before any work is done
  • Top is very vigorous and has many thick branches
  • This branch comes too far to the front blocking the view
  • Here it lacks a counter balancing branch
  • Cleaning the soil to reveal the nebari
  • Fine tapering trunk
  • Interesting branch. Can it be useful in the design?

Beech – HUSBANDRY

  • Propagate: With cuttings, or air layer- ing.
  • Placement: Likes full sun for good development, however during hot summer days protect in semi shade. Protect against severe frosts
  • Pruning: Prune back strong growth to two leaves. Weaker shoots should be left to fully extend, then prune back to three leaves. Clip and grow is very successful. Prune strong branches in autumn or late winter.
  • Repotting: Every two to three years. Beech can grow very strong roots, so cut back in favour of the weaker
    roots, which should not be pruned. Use a well-draining soil type.
  • Watering: As with many bonsai, beech likes to have its roots in a moist soil. During winter avoid it becoming too wet.
  • Wiring: The best time to wire is winter to early spring, before leaves start to bud. Always use aluminium wire and monitor the wire during the spring and summer seasons to avoid it biting into the bark.

Wiring

Overall view of what has to be done. Red indicates branches needing to be cut or completely removed. The right area needs to have a counter balance branch (A)
Overall view of what has to be done. Red indicates branches needing to be cut or completely removed. The right area needs to have a counter balance branch (A)
Cleaning the soil to reveal the nebari
Cleaning the soil to reveal the nebari

Wiring the whole tree isn’t necessary. In this case the trunk is already matured and with deciduous trees it cannot be changed in direction or be shaped by wire. However, the trunk only needs a slight tilt to the left to bring the large side branch a little more horizontal. Using aluminium wire and combining one piece with two branches works best. Use the trunk or a thick part of the branch as an anchor point.

The left branch is way too long and chunky, it needs to be shortened because it is too dominant
The left branch is way too long and chunky, it needs to be shortened because it is too dominant
It is being cut short at a point where it has side branches. It is less dominant now and its tapering improved
It is being cut short at a point where it has side branches. It is less dominant now and its tapering improved
Thick branches are cut in the top section
Thick branches are cut in the top section
Which branches to be cut next are marked with a red cross. Red dotted line shows how a branch's tapering is improved by removing a thick part
Which branches to be cut next are marked with a red cross. Red dotted line shows how a branch’s tapering is improved by removing a thick part
The wound is made smooth with concave pliers
The wound is made smooth with concave pliers

When wire bites in

Monitor the wired tree every week to check that the wire isn’t biting into the rapid thickening branches. Here you can see what happens when you are too late. If you should see wire biting into the bark, remove it carefully using wire cutters to snip through the wire and take it out piece by piece. The damaged areas can be treated with cut paste.

Wiring the branches

Beech - STYLES
Beech – STYLES
Combining one wire with two branche
Combining one wire with two branches
A guy wire is slipped between a coil of wire to pull the branch slightly downward. The guy wire is fixed to the pot
A guy wire is slipped between a coil of wire to pull the branch slightly downward. The guy wire is fixed to the pot
Holding the branch steady while wiring the tip
Holding the branch steady while wiring the tip
Combining one wire with two branches using the trunk to anchor it. Below: the drawing explains how to do it
Combining one wire with two branches using the trunk to anchor it. Below: the drawing explains how to do it

  • Anchoring around the trunk and using both ends to wire two branches
  • Secondary branches can be wired with a finer wire (yellow) running along the first wire (red)

The result so far

Seen from above, the almost completely wired tree
Seen from above, the almost completely wired tree
The future image of the tree. Note the red branch, our future counter balance branch
The future image of the tree. Note the red branch, our future counter balance branch

The finished work, the tree slightly tilted to the left for a more balanced image

The finished work, the tree slightly tilted to the left for a more balanced image
The finished work, the tree slightly tilted to the left for a more balanced image

During the next season the tree needs to be repotted and given3 further refinement of the branches. We also need to address the bold space on the right. Here we need a counter-balance branch which has to grow from a spontaneous bud or, most likely, has to be developed by using the approach technique. Not straight away, however. This will be an action point for the future.

 

Beech – SPECIES

  • Common name: Japanese beech
  • Genus: Fagus
  • Higher taxon: Fagaceae
  • Species: Fagus crenata
  • Skill level: Beginner to advanced
  • Soil type: Medium rich, but well draining, with 40-50% fine gravel added to the mix.
  • Flowers and fruit: Both female (green) and male (yellow) are small in separate clusters on the same tree in mid spring. Fruit is a spiky husk 2.5 cm long, with edible nuts.
  • Foliage: The simple, dark green, leaves are arranged along the branch alternately. They are broadest towards the base and have 7 to 11 pairs of veins.
  • Bark: The bark is smooth and grey.

Tiếng Việt 

The charm of the Japanese beech

The Japanese beech is always an exhibition eye catcher. Its smooth grey-white bark and muscled trunk give the tree a most majestic appearance. Easy to work on, as seen in this example. With just a little pruning and wiring you can already improve this little beech

This field grown beech (Fagus crenata) was further prepared for bonsai in a simple bonsai pot. It already has many fine branches. We show you how to give it its final shape by making some corrections to refine the branch setting.

Beech has a natural tendency to be apical dominant, meaning you have to prevent it concentrating all its energy and growth on the outer regions and top. The strong branch on the left side is an example of what happens when allowed to grow free. It now competes with the top, so we need to remove it, or reduce it in length to bring the whole in balance. In this case it would be spoiled if we cut that branch completely, it has too much character. Another branch grows right towards the front. It blocks the space between the trunk and the left side branch, so that will be removed.

Analysing the tree

The beech before any work is done
The beech before any work is done

Beech – HUSBANDRY

Wiring

Overall view of what has to be done. Red indicates branches needing to be cut or completely removed. The right area needs to have a counter balance branch (A)
Overall view of what has to be done. Red indicates branches needing to be cut or completely removed. The right area needs to have a counter balance branch (A)
Cleaning the soil to reveal the nebari
Cleaning the soil to reveal the nebari

Wiring the whole tree isn’t necessary. In this case the trunk is already matured and with deciduous trees it cannot be changed in direction or be shaped by wire. However, the trunk only needs a slight tilt to the left to bring the large side branch a little more horizontal. Using aluminium wire and combining one piece with two branches works best. Use the trunk or a thick part of the branch as an anchor point.

The left branch is way too long and chunky, it needs to be shortened because it is too dominant
The left branch is way too long and chunky, it needs to be shortened because it is too dominant
It is being cut short at a point where it has side branches. It is less dominant now and its tapering improved
It is being cut short at a point where it has side branches. It is less dominant now and its tapering improved
Thick branches are cut in the top section
Thick branches are cut in the top section
Which branches to be cut next are marked with a red cross. Red dotted line shows how a branch's tapering is improved by removing a thick part
Which branches to be cut next are marked with a red cross. Red dotted line shows how a branch’s tapering is improved by removing a thick part
The wound is made smooth with concave pliers
The wound is made smooth with concave pliers

When wire bites in

Monitor the wired tree every week to check that the wire isn’t biting into the rapid thickening branches. Here you can see what happens when you are too late. If you should see wire biting into the bark, remove it carefully using wire cutters to snip through the wire and take it out piece by piece. The damaged areas can be treated with cut paste.

Wiring the branches

Beech - STYLES
Beech – STYLES
Combining one wire with two branche
Combining one wire with two branches
A guy wire is slipped between a coil of wire to pull the branch slightly downward. The guy wire is fixed to the pot
A guy wire is slipped between a coil of wire to pull the branch slightly downward. The guy wire is fixed to the pot
Holding the branch steady while wiring the tip
Holding the branch steady while wiring the tip
Combining one wire with two branches using the trunk to anchor it. Below: the drawing explains how to do it
Combining one wire with two branches using the trunk to anchor it. Below: the drawing explains how to do it

The result so far

Seen from above, the almost completely wired tree
Seen from above, the almost completely wired tree
The future image of the tree. Note the red branch, our future counter balance branch
The future image of the tree. Note the red branch, our future counter balance branch

The finished work, the tree slightly tilted to the left for a more balanced image

The finished work, the tree slightly tilted to the left for a more balanced image
The finished work, the tree slightly tilted to the left for a more balanced image

During the next season the tree needs to be repotted and given3 further refinement of the branches. We also need to address the bold space on the right. Here we need a counter-balance branch which has to grow from a spontaneous bud or, most likely, has to be developed by using the approach technique. Not straight away, however. This will be an action point for the future.

 

Beech – SPECIES

  • Common name: Japanese beech
  • Genus: Fagus
  • Higher taxon: Fagaceae
  • Species: Fagus crenata
  • Skill level: Beginner to advanced
  • Soil type: Medium rich, but well draining, with 40-50% fine gravel added to the mix.
  • Flowers and fruit: Both female (green) and male (yellow) are small in separate clusters on the same tree in mid spring. Fruit is a spiky husk 2.5 cm long, with edible nuts.
  • Foliage: The simple, dark green, leaves are arranged along the branch alternately. They are broadest towards the base and have 7 to 11 pairs of veins.
  • Bark: The bark is smooth and grey.

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