The Japanese beech is always an exhibition eye catcher. Its smooth grey-white bark and muscled trunk give the tree a most majestic appearance. Easy to work on, as seen in this example. With just a little pruning and wiring you can already improve this little beech
This field grown beech (Fagus crenata) was further prepared for bonsai in a simple bonsai pot. It already has many fine branches. We show you how to give it its final shape by making some corrections to refine the branch setting.
Beech has a natural tendency to be apical dominant, meaning you have to prevent it concentrating all its energy and growth on the outer regions and top. The strong branch on the left side is an example of what happens when allowed to grow free. It now competes with the top, so we need to remove it, or reduce it in length to bring the whole in balance. In this case it would be spoiled if we cut that branch completely, it has too much character. Another branch grows right towards the front. It blocks the space between the trunk and the left side branch, so that will be removed.
Analysing the tree
Top is very vigorous and has many thick branches
This branch comes too far to the front blocking the view
Here it lacks a counter balancing branch
Cleaning the soil to reveal the nebari
Fine tapering trunk
Interesting branch. Can it be useful in the design?
Beech – HUSBANDRY
Propagate: With cuttings, or air layer- ing.
Placement: Likes full sun for good development, however during hot summer days protect in semi shade. Protect against severe frosts
Pruning: Prune back strong growth to two leaves. Weaker shoots should be left to fully extend, then prune back to three leaves. Clip and grow is very successful. Prune strong branches in autumn or late winter.
Repotting: Every two to three years. Beech can grow very strong roots, so cut back in favour of the weaker
roots, which should not be pruned. Use a well-draining soil type.
Watering: As with many bonsai, beech likes to have its roots in a moist soil. During winter avoid it becoming too wet.
Wiring: The best time to wire is winter to early spring, before leaves start to bud. Always use aluminium wire and monitor the wire during the spring and summer seasons to avoid it biting into the bark.
Wiring
Wiring the whole tree isn’t necessary. In this case the trunk is already matured and with deciduous trees it cannot be changed in direction or be shaped by wire. However, the trunk only needs a slight tilt to the left to bring the large side branch a little more horizontal. Using aluminium wire and combining one piece with two branches works best. Use the trunk or a thick part of the branch as an anchor point.
When wire bites in
Monitor the wired tree every week to check that the wire isn’t biting into the rapid thickening branches. Here you can see what happens when you are too late. If you should see wire biting into the bark, remove it carefully using wire cutters to snip through the wire and take it out piece by piece. The damaged areas can be treated with cut paste.
Wiring the branches
Anchoring around the trunk and using both ends to wire two branches
Secondary branches can be wired with a finer wire (yellow) running along the first wire (red)
The result so far
During the next season the tree needs to be repotted and given3 further refinement of the branches. We also need to address the bold space on the right. Here we need a counter-balance branch which has to grow from a spontaneous bud or, most likely, has to be developed by using the approach technique. Not straight away, however. This will be an action point for the future.
Beech – SPECIES
Common name: Japanese beech
Genus: Fagus
Higher taxon: Fagaceae
Species: Fagus crenata
Skill level: Beginner to advanced
Soil type: Medium rich, but well draining, with 40-50% fine gravel added to the mix.
Flowers and fruit: Both female (green) and male (yellow) are small in separate clusters on the same tree in mid spring. Fruit is a spiky husk 2.5 cm long, with edible nuts.
Foliage: The simple, dark green, leaves are arranged along the branch alternately. They are broadest towards the base and have 7 to 11 pairs of veins.
Bark: The bark is smooth and grey.
Tiếng Việt
The charm of the Japanese beech
Text and photography: Bonsai Focus Studio
The Japanese beech is always an exhibition eye catcher. Its smooth grey-white bark and muscled trunk give the tree a most majestic appearance. Easy to work on, as seen in this example. With just a little pruning and wiring you can already improve this little beech
This field grown beech (Fagus crenata) was further prepared for bonsai in a simple bonsai pot. It already has many fine branches. We show you how to give it its final shape by making some corrections to refine the branch setting.
Beech has a natural tendency to be apical dominant, meaning you have to prevent it concentrating all its energy and growth on the outer regions and top. The strong branch on the left side is an example of what happens when allowed to grow free. It now competes with the top, so we need to remove it, or reduce it in length to bring the whole in balance. In this case it would be spoiled if we cut that branch completely, it has too much character. Another branch grows right towards the front. It blocks the space between the trunk and the left side branch, so that will be removed.
Analysing the tree
Top is very vigorous and has many thick branches
This branch comes too far to the front blocking the view
Here it lacks a counter balancing branch
Cleaning the soil to reveal the nebari
Fine tapering trunk
Interesting branch. Can it be useful in the design?
Beech – HUSBANDRY
Propagate: With cuttings, or air layer- ing.
Placement: Likes full sun for good development, however during hot summer days protect in semi shade. Protect against severe frosts
Pruning: Prune back strong growth to two leaves. Weaker shoots should be left to fully extend, then prune back to three leaves. Clip and grow is very successful. Prune strong branches in autumn or late winter.
Repotting: Every two to three years. Beech can grow very strong roots, so cut back in favour of the weaker
roots, which should not be pruned. Use a well-draining soil type.
Watering: As with many bonsai, beech likes to have its roots in a moist soil. During winter avoid it becoming too wet.
Wiring: The best time to wire is winter to early spring, before leaves start to bud. Always use aluminium wire and monitor the wire during the spring and summer seasons to avoid it biting into the bark.
Wiring
Wiring the whole tree isn’t necessary. In this case the trunk is already matured and with deciduous trees it cannot be changed in direction or be shaped by wire. However, the trunk only needs a slight tilt to the left to bring the large side branch a little more horizontal. Using aluminium wire and combining one piece with two branches works best. Use the trunk or a thick part of the branch as an anchor point.
When wire bites in
Monitor the wired tree every week to check that the wire isn’t biting into the rapid thickening branches. Here you can see what happens when you are too late. If you should see wire biting into the bark, remove it carefully using wire cutters to snip through the wire and take it out piece by piece. The damaged areas can be treated with cut paste.
Wiring the branches
Anchoring around the trunk and using both ends to wire two branches
Secondary branches can be wired with a finer wire (yellow) running along the first wire (red)
The result so far
During the next season the tree needs to be repotted and given3 further refinement of the branches. We also need to address the bold space on the right. Here we need a counter-balance branch which has to grow from a spontaneous bud or, most likely, has to be developed by using the approach technique. Not straight away, however. This will be an action point for the future.
Beech – SPECIES
Common name: Japanese beech
Genus: Fagus
Higher taxon: Fagaceae
Species: Fagus crenata
Skill level: Beginner to advanced
Soil type: Medium rich, but well draining, with 40-50% fine gravel added to the mix.
Flowers and fruit: Both female (green) and male (yellow) are small in separate clusters on the same tree in mid spring. Fruit is a spiky husk 2.5 cm long, with edible nuts.
Foliage: The simple, dark green, leaves are arranged along the branch alternately. They are broadest towards the base and have 7 to 11 pairs of veins.
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