[Ebook Việt Hoá] The Instant Guide to Healthy Houseplants: Narcissus (Daffodil)

English

The Narcissus family, a vast and beautiful one, contains hundreds of varieties. All grow from bulbs, which produce narrow, straplike leaves and flowers; and the latter’s petals are grouped around a central cup, or trumpet. These plants are classified according to trumpet and petal lengths, generally being called daffodils when the trumpet is at least as long as the petal. For growing in pots or bowls, choose one of the smaller varieties or buy bulbs specially prepared for indoor flowering. Bulbs, which may be single or double nosed, should be potted in early autumn with the nose just above the soil. They need at least 8 weeks in a dark, cold place for their shoots to appear, after which they should be brought into a cool, light room. 

Light 

Complete darkness is needed for 8 weeks, then diffused light until shoots are green and growing well, and finally full light for flowering. 

Temperature 

Maximum while in darkness (until bud has cleared the bulb), 40-45°F (4-7°C); maximum for flowering, 60°F (16°C). 

Water 

Soak soil after planting, then do not water until brought into light. Thereafter, water 2-3 times per week to keep soil moist at all times. 

Humidity 

Provide good ventilation. 

Feeding 

If bulbs are to be reused, feed weekly with diluted liquid houseplant food at manufacturer’s recommended strength, beginning when growth is 3 inches (8 cm) high. 

Soil 

Use loam-based soil mixed with a handful of fine grit. 

After flowering 

If bulbs are to be reused, cut back dead flower stems. Allow leaves to die (at least 8 weeks), then cut back to soil level. Lift bulb, separate offsets and store bulb in a cool, dry place. Repot in autumn. If desired, plant outdoors before the leaves die down. 

What Goes Wrong

• Flower bud becomes pale brown and stops growing: Too dry while developing. Keep moist at all times. Plant will not flower, but continue feeding until foliage dies. as bulb can be saved for repotting. 
• Lush leaves but no flowers: Overfeeding. Begin feeding with diluted liquid houseplant food at weekly intervals when growth is 3 inches (8 cm) high. Bud remains near neck of bulb: Pot brought into full light and heat too early. Shoots should be growing strongly and bud clear of neck before pot is moved. If plants have been placed outdoors, suspect slugs or snails. Sprinkle with slug pellets if slime trails are present. 
• Tips of leaves shrivel, brown spots appear on flowers: Fungal disease. Spray with bordeaux mixture. Plant will not recover if disease is severe. 
• Flowers shrivel, leaves are blotched: Too hot. air too dry. Move to a cooler place. Spray with clean water if temperature near 60°F.
• Leaves yellow and soft. Bulb is soft when lifted: Basal rot caused by being too wet. Ensure good drainage in bowl by putting a layer of gravel .n bottom of bowl before planting. Rotted plants will not bloom. 
• Bulbs produce thin, grass-like leaves and no flowers: Bulb may have been attacked by grubs of narcissi fly in previous season or may not have been fed. Choose firm, heavy bulbs for planting. 
• Long yellow stripes on leaves: Viral disease. Plants should flower, but discard bulbs after-wards and do not take offsets for planting. Do not reuse soil. 
• Leaves and stem are pale and elongated, leaves may be drooping or lying flat: Much too dark or too hot. Daffodils need good light but not direct sunlight; maximum temperature for good flowers is 60°F (16°C). Stake before buds are fully developed; more importantly, provide cool. light situation. 
• Light brown spots on flowers. Reddish patches on leaves: Botrytis. Cut off affected leaves. Spray with bordeaux mixture.